| Sometimes
you can't see the forest for the trees which is why Portugal's eastern
Algarve escaped my radar screen for far too long. Like the great majority
of visitors who travel to the sunny country on the western rim of the Iberian
Peninsula, I historically focused on the western Algarve visiting popular
oceanfront cities like Lagos, Vilamoura and Albufeira. Indeed, the eastern
region was a blank page until a few months ago when I removed my blinkers
and discovered a whole new Algarve.
The east fails to receive the hordes of
British, German and North American sun seekers who annually descend on
the western Algarve--some for short-term getaways and others for long-term
winter stays--consequently the east is clearly less crowded, less busy
and prices for everything from accommodations to dining, entertainment
and golf can often be less expensive than in the west's high-profile resort
areas. |
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So why don't more people travel to the
eastern Algarve? Good question, since the strip of land that runs from
the region's capital of Faro, east to the Spanish border town of Villa
Real de Santo Antonio, seems to have plenty going for it in terms of ancient
cities, castles, beaches, golf, quaint harbour towns and, of course, it's
bathed in the same sunshine that radiates over the western Algarve.
Last year alone the slender country that
shares a border with Spain attracted more than 100,000 heat-seeking Canadians
with the bulk of them choosing to stay in the Algarve region. This southernmost
part of Portugal extends along 240 kilometres of Atlantic seacoast and
those that chose to holiday in the eastern area will have likely discovered,
as I did, that the region's cup runs over with things to see and do.
| Among
its attractions are charming urban centres, many of them with historical
roots dating back to the times of the Phoenicians, Romans and Moors. Widely
considered the eastern Algarve's most beautiful town is Tavira, a working
tuna fishing port divided by the Gilao River.
Once a walled city (some walls still remain),
its Old Town section and beyond contain at least 30 ancient cathedrals,
palaces and temples. Tavira is best enjoyed by strolling its labyrinth
of cobblestone streets and exploring the shopping and cafe district that
runs along the river's west bank. Moreover, it may be the only place on
earth with a tuna fishing museum, a modest repository that pays homage
to the town’s chicken-of-the-sea industry. |
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Other eastern Algarve centres like Faro,
Olhao and Vila Real de Santo Antonio share many of the same characteristics
as Tavira: splendid ancient architecture, Old Town quarters, a proliferation
of shopping and dining opportunities and Portugal's ubiquitous pastelerias
(pastry/coffee shops). By Canadian standards, the Portuguese' passion for
sweets is a virtual phenomenon. Indeed, the incredible consumption of baked
goods is country-wide: cakes, tortes, custards, cookies and tarts. The
Portuguese eat them with abandon and although coffee is the preferred accompaniment,
they will even wash them down with beer. The obsession is somewhat akin
to the fondness Canadians have for Tim Horton’s or Starbucks--only multiplied
three times over. One thing you can be sure of in any Algarve city is that
a pasteleria is never further than a stone's throw away.
Also in abundant supply are beaches. While
the west is renowned for its sand-fringed resort areas, the eastern Algarve's
shoreline is likewise punctuated by a string of white sand beaches that
are typically quieter, less crowded and the waters are warmer than in the
west. Beginning near Faro and stretching east almost to the Spanish border
the Ria Formosa is a protected natural parkland of beaches, lagoons and
offshore islands. Some of the best out-islands for sunbathing, swimming
and windsurfing are virtually sand bars reached by public boat shuttle
from the mainland. How does the beach scene in the east compare to the
west? The answer came from my tour guide, Martina Kerk, who has lived in
the Algarve for 15 years. "When I want to enjoy a perfect beach day where
I'm not surrounded by crowds, I always head to the eastern Algarve," she
said.
| Other
places where there's apt to be less crowded are on the east's golf courses,
again because of the lower visitation factor. In total, the Algarve region
is home to 28 courses with six of them located in the east where green
fees are generally cheaper than in the west. |
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In spite of the east’s fewer number of
courses, Antonio Pires, manager of the 18-hole Benamor Golf Club
insists there's no relationship between quantity and quality. "We've got
great courses here in the east and we hope to change the trend of tourists
arriving at the Faro International Airport and making a sharp left turn
to the west," he said. "We're the forgotten part of the Algarve and there's
no good reason for it."
Pires was right but he was preaching to
the converted. Not only did the eastern Algarve make it onto my radar screen,
I liked what I saw.
For more information and free travel brochures
contact the Portuguese Tourism Commission at 416-921-7376 or go online
at www.visitportugal.com
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