| The
last time I took a passenger rail trip to the East Coast I was five years
old and by today’s standards the train I traveled on would be considered
vintage. Nevertheless, that childhood excursion was the beginning of a
lifelong passion for riding the rails and in the grips of a nostalgic moment
last year I decided to relive the experience. The duplication of that long
ago trip was different in many ways but despite the span of several decades
the core value was surprisingly the same. |
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Instead of a steam locomotive, this time
the excursion unfolded on VIA Rail‘s diesel Ocean train where I indulged
myself with its Easterly class service. Departing Montreal in the late
afternoon and arriving in Halifax the following afternoon, the overnight
Ocean runs a year-round, six days a week schedule between Montreal and
Halifax but from mid-June to mid-October the special Easterly tourist class
service is brought onboard. This top-of-the-line addendum has some nice
touches that were certainly not available on my first trip.
One of the additions is what VIA calls
its learning co-ordinators. Touted as a “Maritime learning experience,“
the co-ordinator on my trip, Abby Salah, offered a variety of interesting
presentations on the cultural and historical aspects of the regions we
passed through: Quebec’s south shore, New Brunswick and Nova Scotia. Salah’s
entertaining dissertations took place in the panoramic dome car (exclusive
to Easterly class passengers) beginning as we departed the Montreal station
with a champagne toast featuring an excellent vintage produced by an award-winning
Atlantic Canada winery.
| Notwithstanding
the trip routing that during daylight hours embodies a picturesque Maritime
landscape; the inclusion of Easterly Class learning co-ordinators greatly
enriches the experience. Although drinking in the scenery is one thing
as the Ocean rolls by communities and regions, the knowledgeable co-ordinators
bring places to life with their anecdotes about historical and current
events.
Overall, the Easterly class is VIA’s brand
of upscale travel (for which passengers pay more) and includes all meals
in a smart looking dining car with tables dressed out in pastel-coloured
cloths. |
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Although taking meals in the dining car
on that long ago trip was quite wonderful with crisp white tablecloths,
gleaming silver and incredibly attentive servers, the big difference today
is menu choices. Easterly passengers can expect gourmet selections such
as garlic & herb shrimp brochettes, surf and turf, crab cakes, juicy
steak, grilled halibut, a variety of pasta dishes, tasty soups, fresh salads
and, of course, much more.
By train standards worldwide, Easterly
Class sleeping accommodations are comfortable with in-room facilities.
Most of the Easterly sleeping cars have double and double deluxe bedrooms;
with the latter equipped with in-room showers. During the day, the bed
(or beds) that feature Down-filled comforters are converted into seating.
There are various configurations for Easterly sleeping accommodations and
they all seemed pretty attractive to me since any sweet dreams I had on
the original trip occurred in an upper berth.
| During
restful, meditative hours onboard, I had plenty of time to compare train
travel of old with present day. Obvious differences included state-of-the-art-machinery
and a dome car but in total, while this trip may have been a little less
genteel, it was entirely pleasant and not terribly unlike that first memorable
experience. Today, I still love the clickety-clack sound of wheels on train
tracks but what I probably enjoy most is the feeling of indulgence--that
relaxed “sit back and let somebody else do the driving” kind of feel. |
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Moreover, Halifax is a good place to disembark
well-rested and ready to explore a waterfront city that is filled with
entertainment options. Boasting one of the world’s largest natural harbours
and home of the famous Bluenose sailing ship, the city and surrounding
area teem with an impressive array of museums, galleries, historic sites,
restaurants and lively nightlife.
It’s also a city of summer festivals and
among the most animated is the Royal Nova Scotia International Tattoo occurring
this year July 1-8. This military and civilian extravaganza features more
than 2,000 international and Canadian performers presenting music, dance,
drama, comedy and military displays. Just as spirited is the annual Buskers
Festival (Aug. 10-18) when some of the world’s top street performers such
as jugglers, contortionists and fire breathers descend on the city. As
festivals go, there’s probably none more impressive than the Tall Ships
Festival. When these awesome sailing vessels from countries around the
world drop anchor in Halifax Harbour from July 13-16, the event represents
the largest international gathering of world-class Tall Ships.
Beyond festivals, history buffs will find
the city is filled with exceptional sites and attractions. One of the most
visited is the Citadel, a Halifax landmark that sits high on a hill overlooking
the city. This 19th century, star-shaped British fortification offers daily
summer tours and a highlight every day is the traditional firing of the
noon-day gun from atop the ramparts.
Another compelling attraction is the Maritime
Museum of the Atlantic. Here, visitors can explore the seafaring history
of Halifax and Nova Scotia. Also, the Pier 21 National Historic Site sees
thousands of visitors a year interested in its history from 1920 to 1970
as the official doorway to Canada for more than one million immigrants
from around the globe.
Many sites and activities are held on or
near the waterfront where a plank-board Harbourwalk area is the liveliest
place to be during summer. Cruise ships coming and going, shops galore,
outdoor eateries, buskers and a 24-hour casino are a big part of what defines
this friendly, cosmopolitan city.
TRAVEL PLANNER
Go online at www.destinationhalifax.com
or call 1-877-422-9334 for more information. On request, Destination Halifax
will also mail a free visitors guide.
For additional information about VIA Rail’s
Ocean schedule and its class options see www.viarail.ca
or call 1-888-VIA-RAIL. More information is also available on VIA’s coast-to-coast
travel.
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