|
|
Two
days in Warwickshire - the heart of England
Visiting a medieval castle and
Shakespeare's hometown
The Ultimate Castle
If you ever
pretended to be a princess or knight in shining armour, you
are sure to feel that excitement and child-like exuberance as you enter
Warwick Castle.
The
air is damp and fresh from the
early morning rain as I pass through the turnstiles and step out of the
coach house, which now houses a gift shop.
|
Warwick Castle
|
Side stepping
the puddles along the walkway, I am greeted by a one-eyed black and
orange tortoiseshell cat. I do not know if this cat is a stray or
someone's pet, but I imagine it comes from a long line of castle cats
dating back to its founding in 1068. Either way, she seems perfectly at
home on the castle grounds and after a brief introduction, almost as if
to say "welcome to my castle," the cat disappears into the bushes and
leaves me to explore on my own.
With
the castle on my right, I follow
the path that brings me to the main entrance.
| Framed
by formidable
towers, the Barbican and Gatehouse were built with the sole purpose of
thwarting invaders. Between two iron portcullises (gates that close
vertically), attackers faced crossfire from arrow slits and stones or
boiling liquid launched through murder holes in the ceiling. |
The Great Hall
|
Luckily,
it is far easier to enter the castle these days!
Beyond
the confines of the entryway
lies an expansive grassy oval courtyard. Medieval walls accentuated
with towers encircle the area. At the opposite side of the courtyard
stands the site of the original castle fortifications – the
Mound. On
the orders of William the Conqueror, the mound was built up and topped
with a wooden fortress. As the castle expanded, the mound lost most of
its defensive importance, but none of its visual impact. A paved
serpentine path brings me to the top. From this vantage point, I can
see the grounds beyond the castle walls. Down to my left, a footbridge
crosses over the River Avon to River Island, the site of the world's
largest trebuchet. Made with medieval specifications and techniques,
this giant catapult fires large stones twice daily during late spring,
summer and early fall.
|
Queen Anne's bed
– she returned
to London without ever sleeping in it
|
Further in
the distance white sheep punctuate
the endless green pastures.
|
The heart of every castle is the
Great Hall. Constructed in the 14th century, with later renovations and
restorations, the hall is grand and impressive. High above me, a lone
chandelier hangs from the wooden beamed ceiling. On the right wall,
three large windows look out over the mill and river. In front of the
two furthest windows, knights atop their horses display battle armour.
In fact, each stone wall is highlighted by the glint from metal swords,
suits and shields.
The
opulent adjoining staterooms date
from the 17th and 18th centuries. The three drawing rooms feature
detailed paneling, ornate ceilings and historic paintings.
|
The lavish State Dining Room
|
The
Queen Anne bedroom, with tapestries lining the walls, is most notable
for the furniture. In preparation for a visit from Queen Anne, a royal
bed was sent to the castle. Although the visit was cancelled, the bed
stayed.
The Bard's Hometown
My
bed for the night, while not regal, is at one of the lovely B&B's,
8 miles (13km) away, in Stratford-upon-Avon. The next morning, with the bright sun
keeping the chill in the air at bay, I begin my second day of visiting
Warwickshire County in Shakespeare's old neighbourhood. It is true that
Shakespeare's most prolific years were spent in London, but
Stratford-upon-Avon was always home and it is here that the Shakespeare
Birth Trust runs the five historic houses associated with him and his
family. Three houses are within Stratford-upon-Avon proper, while the
other two are only a few miles away. I plan to visit all five houses',
so I am taking advantage of the hop-on hop-off City Sightseeing bus
tour.
|
Anne Hathaway's
thatched cottage,
childhood home of Shakespeare's wife
|
Town...
My first stop, Shakespeare's Birthplace is a surprisingly large
timber-framed house on Henley Street. Inside, period furnishings,
original flooring and his father's glove making workshop set the scene
for the home that saw William Shakespeare grow from an infant to the
world's foremost playwright.
Nash's
House, home of Shakespeare's
granddaughter, contains some interesting period pieces and is adjacent
to the site of Shakespeare's last residence, New Place. Unfortunately,
New Place was demolished in the 18th century, leaving only the gardens
for visitors to enjoy.
|
The Mound was ordered
to be constructed
by William The Conqueror
|
However, if
you go from now until October 30th you are in for a real treat. For the
second summer in a row, archaeologists working on the Dig for
Shakespeare project will be welcoming the public as they sift through
layers of soil at the excavation site.
Hall's Croft, home to Shakespeare's daughter Susanna and her husband
John Hall, is a very elegant home. Perhaps the most interesting of the
properties, the home features the writings, instruments and herbs that
Dr. Hall used in his medical practice. Considered one of the most
eminent physicians of the day, his detailed record keeping has revealed
quite a lot about the maladies and remedies of Jacobean England.
Just down the road is Holy Trinity Church, the site of Shakespeare's
baptism and burial. Like visitors have for hundreds of years, I head to
the altar and read the lines inscribed on Shakespeare's grave, "...
Bleste be the man that spares thes stones, And curst be he that moves
my bones." Leaving the sanctuary, I turn and walk around the church to
the edge of the iver Avon. Here, is the perfect spot to take a
moment and enjoy the peaceful beauty of this quaint and quiet area.
...and Country
Surrounded by wildflowers, Anne Hathaway's Cottage is the
quintessential thatched, English house. The home where William wooed
his future wife is a mile (1.6 km) from Stratford. The large black
stones on the kitchen floor have worn unevenly over the last four
centuries. Along one wall is a large open fireplace and bread oven. It
is here that a period dressed guide describes the workings of an
Elizabethan kitchen.
At
Mary Arden's Farm, the childhood
home of Shakespeare's mother, visitors experience 16th century life on
the farm. There are chickens, goats and pigs to feed and tend to in the
yard. The nature trail brings me past a small orchard and then to a
field of sheep. These animals with long woollen bangs, resembling
dreadlocks hanging over their eyes, are highly prized Cotswold sheep.
|
The Avon River, viewed
from the grounds of
Holy Trinity Church
|
I like this place
and willingly could waste my time in it
As
You Like it (Act II, Scene IV)
Touring these sites offers an incredible insight into Shakespeare's
world. Whether you are a fan of the Bard's prose or someone who
struggled through each act and scene, a visit to Stratford-upon-Avon is
a delight.
|
|
|
