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Exploring
Spain's historic "Silver Route"
Depending on who you talk to, the
ancient Roman-built road that once bisected western Spain and is now
the core of a 625-mile-long tourist route, is either accurately named
or it is not. Although generally called the Silver Route, some argue
the corridor that runs from the country's northern coast south to the
city of Seville had little or nothing to do with the transport of
Roman-mined silver.
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Overlooking the old
Jewish Quarter in the town of Hervas.
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Others
say there is compelling evidence the route that now features modern
paved highways should more accurately be called the Tin Way since
history asserts the Romans did, in fact, mine considerable amounts of
tin from the region. To further muddy the waters, the Silver Route in
Spanish is called the Ruta de la Plata, a name that some say was
unrelated to silver but instead was derived from the Arabic word,
balata, meaning "paved."
Discounting any debate over what it
should rightly be called, today's Silver Route whose link road was
begun by the Romans in the 1st century A.D. embodies an overwhelming
wealth of ancient monuments, grand cathedrals, stone aqueducts, castles
and charming historical towns with compact cobblestone streets.
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Completed in 1618,
St.Stephen's Church (Convento de San
Esteban) in Salamanca was built by the Dominican Order
and its richly adorned interior contains beautiful religious
icons like those shown.
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Also, while
there are plenty of contemporary overnight accommodations, there is
also an abundance of historic convents, castles and monasteries
converted into delightful paradores. Overall, the Silver Route is rife
with things to see and do in a region whose history is filled with
conquests and defeats intermittently involving Phoenicians, Greeks,
Celts, Visigoths, Arabs and Romans.
Among the Route's extensive inventory of attractions, there are
highlights that should not be missed beginning with the beautiful city
of Salamanca. Originally founded by the Celts, it was later conquered
in 217 B.C. by the intrepid Carthaginian military commander, Hannibal,
prior to the arrival of the Romans. Today, inside the walled city's Old
Town section, many famous sites include a multi-arched stone bridge
built by the Romans in the 1st century A.D., plus the town's 12th
century Old Cathedral and 16th century New Cathedral whose spires
pierce the sky and can be seen from miles away. Salamanca's 18th
century Plaza Mayor (central square) is one of the largest and grandest
in Spain and consistently bustles with activity from early morning
until late at night. Rimmed with shops, bars and restaurants, locals
fondly refer to the square as their "living room." Salamanca is also a
university town whose renowned school of learning dates back to the
13th century and is also one of the city's architectural jewels.
Overall, the Old Town area embodies an extensive maze of cobblestone
streets lined with ancient buildings, some which now house contemporary
shops and restaurants. In 1998, Salamanca was declared a UNESCO World
Heritage City and in 2002 it was named the European Capital of Culture.
Further south along the Route, the
walled city of Bejar is likewise endowed with outstanding historic
architecture and is also home to the oldest bullring in Spain. Its most
unusual feature--in fact the most unusual along the Silver Route--is
the Moss Men of Bejar. Each June for the annual Corpus Christi
Procession, six men get completely wrapped in moss-laden sods held
together with fishing line. This is a centuries-old tradition that
dates back to a time when conquering Arabs laid siege to what was then
a Christian city. Legend
has it that in order to rid
Bejar of Muslim dominance, a group of local Christians devised a plan
to don moss coverings in order to portray themselves as fearsome
monsters. The plan
worked and the intimidated Arabs vacated the city--a
successful ploy that town citizens celebrate annually.
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Around the perimeter
wall of Salamanca's main square, over each one of the more than 75
arches is a carved medallion depicting the likeness of a famous
person in Spain's history.
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Salamanca and Bejar are just two of the ancient cities that punctuate
the Silver Route. Others that are similarly engaging include Placencia,
Caceres and certainly Seville where its famous 17th century bullring is
among the oldest in Spain. However, the Route is much more than a
one-dimensional history museum. In fact, it is filled with surprises
such as the Monfrague National Park, a 45,457-acre protected natural
habitat for Mediterranean wildlife. Regarded among the best bird
watching locations in Europe, the park is the summer breeding grounds
for a variety of vultures, eagles, black and white storks, the blue
rock thrush, owls, eagles and red-rump swallows. In addition to a
comprehensive interpretation centre, Monfrague's varied landscape of
woodlands, plains and river gorges is ideal for hiking and there are
walking trails of varying duration from a half hour to a full day. Also
within the park is an ancient stone castle of Arabic origin plus cave
paintings considered among the best examples in the country.
The abundance of regional cuisine is
also a large component of any tour of the Silver Route. Tourists can
pretty much forget fast food outlets and sitting down for dinner at 6
or 7 pm. Spaniards have barely finished their lunch by this time and
they certainly won't be thinking about dinner until 9 or 10 pm. Some
restaurants don't even open in the evening until 8:30 p.m. Aside from
long, long lunches and late, late dinners, the good news is that the
cuisine is delightful. Tapas meals (a Spanish specialty) incorporate a
variety of small portions of cold meats or cheeses, plus elaborately
concocted hot dishes of seafood, meat or vegetables. Tapas is a meal often eaten standing
at a bar rather than sitting at a table.
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The Silver Route is
riddled with ancient cathedrals and other architectural masterpieces
like the one shown here in the city of Plasencia
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Overall, the
Route embodies everything from casual restaurants to elegant dining
spots and always a selection of excellent Spanish wines. Two obvious
features of the Route's regional cuisine are outstanding cheeses and
the remarkable consumption of pork. Not a single part of the pig is
wasted from snout to tail. At the top of the region's pork ladder is
the black-hoofed pig which provides what is arguably among the world's
best ham that is carved into paper thin slices and appears with eggs
for breakfast, on plates of evening tapas, at lunch with crusty bread
and as a dinner appetizer.
| Travel
Planner |
Travel
Planner: See www.spain.info/ca
Getting
there: Spain's main airport is the Madrid Barajas International
Airport. Several carriers fly to Madrid from Canadian gateways.
Access:
Good paved highways lead from Madrid to any portion of the Silver
Route. Distance and time to hook up with the Route depends on where
individuals want to begin touring. The Route can be done in whole from
top to bottom, bottom to top or, alternatively, a selected portion.
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