| If there is any validity to the old adage
that practice makes perfect, then the Charlevoix Region’s hospitality
industry could be regarded among the best in the country. Remarkably,
the area’s long standing resort tradition was born at least two full
centuries ago followed by decade after decade of growth and refinement.
By anybody’s standards, that’s a lot of practice and what evolved was a
lot of perfection. |
The stately Manoir Richelieu is a historic and captivating holiday destination
|
I discovered
the Charlevoix’s abundant assets, physical and otherwise, during
a recent trip to this 6,000 sq. km region that hugs the north shore of
the St. Lawrence River, a 90 minute drive east of Quebec City. Its
picture-perfect landscape--frequently rendered by artists and lauded by
poets--was largely shaped by a violent act of nature that occurred 350
million years ago when a 7,000-foot-wide meteorite travelling at a
speed of six miles a second plunged to the earth creating a crater
spanning 56 km. Over time, Mother Nature moulded the effects of this
catastrophic collision into a visually dramatic setting defined by a
mix of rolling terrain, deep forests, fjords and the plunging slopes of
the Laurentian Mountains. The Charlevoix crater is one of the biggest
in the world and is host to a rare and outstanding diversity of flora
and fauna, conditions that led to its 1988 designation as a UNESCO
world biosphere reserve.
| The reserve, however, is just one facet of
this pastoral region punctuated by charming villages, art and craft
centres, plus ample opportunities for golf, skiing, cycling,
snowmobiling, hiking, fishing, kayaking and whale watching. Overall,
the Charlevoix Region today is a popular all-seasons vacation
destination that got its start primarily around the waterfront
communities of Pointe-au-Pic and La Malbaie. (Pointe-au-Pic has now
merged with the city of La Malbaie). Beginning with a few small inns and guest
houses, the region’s popularity grew steadily and by the start of the
20th century it was attracting the upper crust of North American
society lured there by its unspoiled beauty, tranquility, clean air,
fishing and other outdoor pursuits. |
27 holes of championship golf |
Among the elite
visitors of the period was the 27th president of the United States,
William Howard Taft, who adored the area and once remarked that the air
around La Malbaie’s Murray Bay was “as intoxicating as
champagne, yet without the hangover.”
| During this early period of genteel
romanticism, Taft and other wealthy contemporaries from New York,
Boston, Philadelphia, Montreal, Quebec City and Ottawa built grand
summer homes there and, in effect, turned the La Malbaie area into a
vacation colony populated by people who clearly recognized its
endearing qualities. |
|
Many of those
original homes have since been turned into charming inns and boutique
hotels but the grandest and most engaging edifice of all is Le Manoir
Richelieu, a property that is now part of the Fairmont chain known for
some of the finest grand hotels in the country. Over the years, Le
Manoir’s reputation has extended well beyond Canada’s
borders attracting famous guests such as Elvis Presley, Angelina Jolie
and John Travolta.
This is not a property that started out small and grew although the
original Le Manoir, a huge and impressive wooden hotel that opened in
1899, was destroyed by fire in 1928. Remarkably, in less than a year
the building was replaced--this time with a concrete structure that
replicates an elegant French chateau. Perched on a hill overlooking the
St. Lawrence, Le Manoir is widely known as “the castle on the
cliff” and its colourful and absorbing history is chronicled in
an excellent book titled Fairmont Le Manoir Richelieu written by Quebec
City author and architectural historian, France Gagnon Pratte.
.
| Although the 405-room world-class resort
is 78 years old, it has kept pace with all the modern amenities and
services. From guest rooms to common space, this paragon of a property
is designed and furnished in the style that prevailed in France during
the period when Cardinal Richelieu largely dictated that country’s
affairs. |
THe Manoir Richelieu is equally enchanting in winter. |
Le Manoir’s amenities include a saltwater indoor pool, an
outdoor swimming pool, full service spa and three restaurants with
menus that focus on regional cuisine using fresh, local products.
Two of the
hotel’s biggest attractions are its 27 hole golf course and an
adjacent casino. Just over a year ago, millions of dollars were spent
on upgrading the existing 18-hole Le Manoir Richelieu Golf Club plus
the addition of nine more holes designed by noted architect, Darrell
Huxham. With spectacular panoramic views of the Charlevoix countryside
and the St. Lawrence River, this is one of Quebec’s finest
courses that has, not surprisingly, garnered a host of award
recognitions from some of North America’s top golf journals.
| Just steps from the main entrance, the
hotel’s onsite gaming establishment (Casino Charlevoix) was built at
the same time as the existing Le Manoir, consequently its similar
chateau architecture is as pleasing as the main building. It was originally the venue for hotel
guests to enjoy dancing and moving picture shows but today its interior
houses a full service casino featuring 800 slot machines as well as 20
gaming tables offering everything from blackjack to roulette. |
|
Quite clearly,
Le Manoir Richelieu is a vacation destination unto itself but it would
be a shame to visit the Charlevoix Region without exploring some of its
other attractions which are as diverse as the landscape itself. One
recommendation for a fun, off-site evening is a visit to La Maison du
Bootlegger, just minutes from the hotel. As its name implies, this
traditional Quebecois home was once a bootlegger’s house during
the period of prohibition when the Catholic Church forbade the use of
alcohol. Currently it’s a restaurant that offers good hearty
food, lots of local beer, live music and patrons are encouraged to
dance, dress up in crazy hats and wigs and simply let their hair down.
There are also guided tours of this once clandestine house that reveal
hidden entrances, secret rooms and narrow corridors once designed to
deceive the vice squad.
Charlevoix travel information can be found on the web at www.tourisme-charlevoix.com or call 1-800-667-2276. For more information about Le Manoir Richelieu go online at www.fairmont.com or call 1-800-463-2613 or 418-665-3703.
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